New Nylet Spirit is here! Progress at last!

[Morgan Dewees]

A couple of hopefully helpful comments.

For the laser cut double eye hook in one of your early posts, drill a "square" hole in your mast otherwise the fitting is inclined to twist off to one side or other of the mast and ruin it's alignment. I did not learn about this trick until i had thrown away my set of the hooks.

You may not want to bond your bulb to keel as it is much safer to transport the fin and bulb separately if you are traveling beyond your local pond.

[Dave Pickett]

Thanks Morgan.

Too late I'm afraid, have already drilled round holes!!!! The alternative of using hooks will I think also potentially twist, will see what happens when I put tension on and think about it then if it's an issue.

mmmm Not sure I wouldnt trust the nut not to come loose, and drop the bulb into the murky depths so I will bond mine, also considering I will only transport mine in my car. Good point for anyone travelling by air etc, thank you.

[Bruce Andersen]

fins that can be detached from their bulbs are much easier to paint, fill, sand, repair, & polish if that's a concern - you check every other screw on the boat before going sailing - just add the keel/bulb nut to the list (or cross pin them together)

[Dave Pickett]

Well the winch is working, this is running on 6 volts it will be a bit quicker on the 6.6 volts of the liFE batteries when they arrive!!!

[Nigel davies]

It is two years since Dave Pickett posted his last update on the IOMICA forum, listing his highs and lows building his Nylet Spirit 3. Unfortunately it was never completed and I purchased it on eBay several weeks ago. The boat was pretty well as the last post described. The wooden gunnel was fitted and the rigging just started. I am wary about continuing his posts, as everybody seems to have a different opinion on how the boat should be built, but do feel that the story needs to be completed. Advice is welcome, but I have to say at times I felt the way it was given to Dave, not always helpful. Like Dave I am relatively new to the sport, so please treat my posts gently and with tolerance.
The completion of the build frankly should not take long, as Dave had already done much of the work, but my intention is to save it mostly for the winter. I have however done an initial review of the boat, and tidied it up. This has included, gunnel removal, glue mark and paint spatter removal, and general polishing up. I have increased to hole above the winch arm, in the deck, to aid winch adjustment and connected up the rudder. The hole made previously for a deck mounted switch has been filled and the gap around the main sheet post filled and covered with half a grommet.
Most of the parts to complete the boat came with it, and a call to Frank Parsons at Nylet has now been made to add the missing parts.

[Nigel davies]

At last the text can again live up to the title of this posting! I received an offer for my current boat, which I accepted, necessitating a revision as to time frames to complete the Nylet Spirit 3. I have essentially completed the build and have given it a brief shakedown sail.
So what have I done? The rudder assembly was completed without issues and works well despite Daves concerns in previous posts. My next task was to check the rudder servo and sail winch, which was already fitted when I received the boat. Although the rudder servo appeared to work well the sail winch (eurgle) simply oscillated. Fortunately the boat came with two further sail winches, also apparently new, of a similar make. Unfortunately one of these also simply sheeted in and then stopped. The third winch worked well albeit with noisy ticking, which I gather is normal for a digital winch. Time was then spent setting up the sail control lines, and fitting the rigging and sails. Due to inexperience this has involved a lot of trial and error, but basically it is now ready for sail tuning. Ken Parsons at Nylet, during a conversation about fittings, recommended that the drainage bung was put in the stern, rather than the bow, as it minimises water ingress risk, and of course will also make the bow section air proof, to minimise any risk of the boat sinking. This was duly done. The cord back stay previously fitted by Dave was replaced with one made of shroud wire, with cord adjustment. Finally black deck patches were fitted, the large one in the cockpit, larger than necessary, to cover the patches created by the initial mis placement of the radio control receiver and switch by the previous owner when building it. My part of the build went quickly and smoothly. The time to complete was probably in total no more than two days. My only minor criticism of the boat was that the bow bumper is a poor fit, it's neither wide enough or tall enough to smoothly fit the bow, otherwise the Spirit is well made and has my 100% recommendation as good inexpensive club boat.
The shakedown sail went more or less ok. Only real drama's were that the new radio control rudder control needed reversing, as boat went in opposite direction to control, and more significantly, the boom kicker was too low on the mast. This meant that the boom would not go out by more than 45 degrees before binding and trying to rotate mast. The simple solution has subsequently been to fit a mast foot base raising the mast sufficiently to allow boom to move freely.
So now we are getting close to getting it measured and registered. I am awaiting a mast ram, which will be fitted ASAP, and then I will put the mast measurement rings on. My next and final post will hopefully be after the registration is complete and the boat has raced.

[David L Alston]

A few question based upon your photographs:-

1/ Why do you have two sets of shrouds on each side… I was under the impression that the IOM class allow only one set.
If you are classing this additional shroud as a check stay it may NOT be attached to the mast above a point 100 mm above the heel of the mast. I believe It was intended for flat deck boat or a mast stepped on the deck where a mast ram could not be fitted..

2/ What is the purpose of the aluminium track down the foredeck?
I always believed that the Foresail pivot point should be at about 80 to 95mm aft of the tack of the sail. It seems yours is way forward of this point and the effect will be that the Foresail Boom will rid up in a gust causing what is called snap helm – the tendency to shoot up and stall.
If the tension in the topping lift is not sufficient the leach will open as the wind increases and boat will have variable weather helm and will be very difficult to sail.

3/ When and where will we see this boat on the water…At the IOM vets perhaps this weekend

[Nigel davies]

Hi David,
Firstly thank you for your interest in the boat. I will try and answer your comments/questions as best I can. As I stated at the outset of my portion of this post (I did not build much of this boat) I am no expert in IOM but the boat and the rig was built as per that recommended by the designer at Nylet, Frank Parsons, there are many of these boats already racing to this design, so I can only assume that it is acceptable. The track on the fore deck allows for different sheeting points for the different size sails. Most new designs have fixed positions, but older designs pretty well all used this method. My previous boat designed by Pete Wiles had a similar method. Many boats use this track so must be acceptable. Again this was part of the original boat design. With regards to the position of the jib pivot, the boat at time picture was taken was not rig tuned and simply tied down to the forward position in the track, which is adjustable for the purposes of the photograph. As per my previous text my next task is to tune the sails, so inevitably this will be adjusted to a correct position. The boat is based in North Devon UK, so I will be setting up and tuning through the winter at my local club.

[David L Alston]

We are all painfully aware of who built the boat, how you acquired it on E-bay. We have all endured the painful commentary and slow progress together with the saga of weight , servo mounting and all battery purchase.

For the life of me I cannot understand what would possess a man to post a blow by blow commentary of gluing a boat together. Worse still posting pictures of a Micro Magic on an IOM forum. In the time taken one could have completed a full size boat.

I have sailed a Nylet Spirit – two of our club members have / had them and very nice they are.

The Class Rules are the Class Rules – Pay heed man- read them – one set of shrouds only squire – take the others off. Put some spreaders on the mast. 70-80% of chain-plate distance to mast.

You sail at Bideford MYC what is the $%^$%&% secret.

Does Bideford MYC have a sailing venue these days or do you go across to Woodspring. As I recall Bideford Club is looking for a venue -

When do you sail I am often down that end of the world and would like to come across some time and see this boat sailing.

[Nigel davies]

Hi David,
I will investigate the situation re the second shroud and of course conform to the rules. I understand your comments re the previous owner, sorry the previous previous owner, if that makes sense. ( I bought it from second owner who had it for about 10 days!), but I think his intentions were to show the trials and tribulations of building a first boat. Personally I think he would have been better to build the boat as standard, and then play with clever batteries etc, once it was sailing. However as they say we are where we are!
Bideford MYC sail on the Tamar Lakes on alternate Sundays and I'm sure you would be welcome should you be in the area. Tamar Lake is a large reservoir with pretty clean winds unless the direction is over the dam when of course there is a shadow.

[Nigel davies]

Many thanks David re your comments about the second set of shrouds. I have spoken with Frank Parsons at Nylet, and he confirms your point that they are not within the current rules of IOM racing. My guess is that they have been amended during the years that the boat has been being built, so the build instructions were out of date. Shrouds imminently to be removed! Thanks.

[Nigel davies]

Many thanks David re your comments about the second set of shrouds. I have spoken with Frank Parsons at Nylet, and he confirms your point that they are not within the current rules of IOM racing. My guess is that they have been amended during the years that the boat has been being built, so the build instructions were out of date. Shrouds imminently to be removed! Thanks.

[David L Alston]

Nigel,
Simply down load a set of IOM Class Rules from ISAF website. It is really easy = Google “IOM Class Rules” check you have the current version. The download is PDF

The information provided to you is not exactly correct.. The class rules has never permitted twin shrouds as far as I am aware and certainly not for at least 10 years. The check stay was often used on flat deck boats where the mast was stepped on the deck and hence the hound attachment limit of 100mm above the step or heal was imposed. These days with stepped decks and mast rams the check stay is not necessary.
Now some boats of the 2006 to 2010 era did not have a mast ram either but the mast is stepped onto the hog and the tube is a snug fit and basically you adjust the forestay and back stay until the mast is straight or the curve you want. TS2 and Tonic was an example of this. My early FatBoy design was the same.

The idea of the second set of chain plates on the deck was to allow you to use a rear setting in heavy conditions to pull the middle of the mast back rather than put the mast into a S with the ram. In light conditions you used the forward chain plate which is nearly square with the mast. Whatever blows your hair. Most set the chain plate back about 15 to 20 mm of the square line through the mast.


At one time Martin Roberts has a screw running through the mast that pushed on the mast tube ..it was a very good solution since you never had to adjust the ram after you found you favourite setting. You need to reinforce the mast on the inside otherwise it will snap off at the screw hole in time.

It you need a sketch I will post one on the forum.

Dave

[David L Alston]

Nigel,
Simply down load a set of IOM Class Rules from ISAF website. It is really easy = Google “IOM Class Rules” check you have the current version. The download is PDF

The information provided to you is not exactly correct.. The class rules has never permitted twin shrouds as far as I am aware and certainly not for at least 10 years. The check stay was often used on flat deck boats where the mast was stepped on the deck and hence the hound attachment limit of 100mm above the step or heal was imposed. These days with stepped decks and mast rams the check stay is not necessary.
Now some boats of the 2006 to 2010 era did not have a mast ram either but the mast is stepped onto the hog and the tube is a snug fit and basically you adjust the forestay and back stay until the mast is straight or the curve you want. TS2 and Tonic was an example of this. My early FatBoy design was the same.

The idea of the second set of chain plates on the deck was to allow you to use a rear setting in heavy conditions to pull the middle of the mast back rather than put the mast into a S with the ram. In light conditions you used the forward chain plate which is nearly square with the mast. Whatever blows your hair. Most set the chain plate back about 15 to 20 mm of the square line through the mast.


At one time Martin Roberts has a screw running through the mast that pushed on the mast tube ..it was a very good solution since you never had to adjust the ram after you found you favourite setting. You need to reinforce the mast on the inside otherwise it will snap off at the screw hole in time.

It you need a sketch I will post one on the forum.

Dave

[David L Alston]

double post - removed

[Dave Pickett]

Firstly I am pleased to see Nigel is making good use of the yacht and I look forward to seeing some photos of it on the water where it should be. Despite the issues I had I believe the yacht was actually pretty well built in the end, with everything well aligned.

Nigel, try moving the winches by hand, I think the resistor tracks get dirty and you may find this will get them working again.

Now to other matters, why did I not complete the boat given it was so close to completion?

I visited my local club and to be honest did not receive much of a welcome or indeed any real encouragement, this did not exactly incentivise me. Now let's look at what happened on here......to quote Nigel:

Advice is welcome, but I have to say at times I felt the way it was given to Dave, not always helpful.

and let's look at the ever helpful Mr Alston's last post:

We are all painfully aware of who built the boat, how you acquired it on E-bay. We have all endured the painful commentary and slow progress together with the saga of weight , servo mounting and all battery purchase.

For the life of me I cannot understand what would possess a man to post a blow by blow commentary of gluing a boat together. Worse still posting pictures of a Micro Magic on an IOM forum. In the time taken one could have completed a full size boat.

Ask yourself why would I or anyone else for that matter want to join a bunch of such arrogant and obnoxious people?

As to why I posted a "blow by blow commentary of gluing a boat together" it was intended to help others as when I searched the web I found little practical help on building an IOM...........

Nigel, I wish you every success with the boat and trust your local club are more welcoming. Perhaps those on here might like to consider the nature and tone of their posts and the impact on newcomers to the hobby. IOM is no different to any other club / hobby that I have taken part in, new members are the lifeblood, and should be given appropriate treatment to encourage them.

[Colin Helliwell]

and let's look at the ever helpful Mr Alston's last post:

We are all painfully aware of who built the boat, how you acquired it on E-bay. We have all endured the painful commentary and slow progress together with the saga of weight , servo mounting and all battery purchase.

For the life of me I cannot understand what would possess a man to post a blow by blow commentary of gluing a boat together. Worse still posting pictures of a Micro Magic on an IOM forum. In the time taken one could have completed a full size boat.

Ask yourself why would I or anyone else for that matter want to join a bunch of such arrogant and obnoxious people?

As to why I posted a "blow by blow commentary of gluing a boat together" it was intended to help others as when I searched the web I found little practical help on building an IOM...........

Nigel, I wish you every success with the boat and trust your local club are more welcoming. Perhaps those on here might like to consider the nature and tone of their posts and the impact on newcomers to the hobby. IOM is no different to any other club / hobby that I have taken part in, new members are the lifeblood, and should be given appropriate treatment to encourage them.

+1