I've also noticed a puncture in the glass, so I'm going to coat the hull in 1.8oz cloth to give her a bit more strength, then take out some of the 280g of ballast from the hull to get me back to 4KG and hopefully a stronger boat.
Please help me in this: i'm thinking on using 5mm wood (that light and soft wood that is used in scale models... i don't know the name in english :( is the same that Graham used in his boat...)
Is it to thick to be used!??? I think Graham used 2mm plates ...
I wasn't aware of that!!! Thanks :) If i send the money i'll recieve the Plans!??
I live in Lisboa, Portugal. They send me the drawings here!? How much the cost will change!?? That where my questions on the email i've sent... i don't mind sending the money by mail... but how ...
- Mix Ratio 2:1 full depth cure - Pot life 45mins - Cure time 24-36 hours - Can be heated up to 50° to reduce the cure time. (warmer makes it less viscose) - Non shrink tack ...
What's the IOM Class main objective!? The main goal!?
Investigation is important and it should be centered on aerodynamics and sailling skills .
It should be the "Man" behind the "Boat" or the other way arround??? I think we are in a RC (Radio Controled) Boat Class... not SCwAP (Self Controled ...
I would support some sort of limitation on the number of keel/bulb/rudder combos allowed per season or some reasonable length of time. (...) perhaps some sort of annual re-measurement could be proposed, with stamps on the fin/bulb combo for that period.
I'm just trying to obtain information to help me choose what boat to buy. I like the TS3's and the Light Ice designs... but what is "best" means to me more than what is the best at the "regatta".
Wich one offers me the best package for the price ...